Wednesday May 27
Yesterday we went to Fraola cafe on the water for breakfast. I got a yummy omelete, Caleb and Mom got yogurt bowls, and Aba got waffles. Then we did a self-guided architecture walking tour through Rethymno and got to see lots of old Venetian door frames, old churches, and Ottoman era mosques. We had a nice time walking around the town and learning about the history of the buildings. We also got yummy sheep/goat (me and Caleb think it was sheep, mom and dad think it was goat) milk gelato which was so delicious- Mom got mocha, Caleb got fig and pistachio, Aba got nutella, and I got Ferrero Rocher and hazelnut YUM! We also walked around the Fortezza, the Venetian fortress, for a long time and it was huge, there was so much to see and it just kept going and going! We went home and took a quick power nap and then we went to a very fancy restaraunt Avli that a family friend recommended. It was super duper fancy shmancy (maybe even a little too fancy for my taste)! I got a yummy lamb dish, Aba got goat, and Caleb got cuttlefish calamari. The waiter helped us choose a wine based on the dishes we chose, and it was very nice. They also brought us little yogurt sweet beet parfaits and raki on the house. It was a very special treat to go to such a classy place!
Today we got up early to drive to Heraklion and see Knossos Palace. We had an excellent tour guide, Akrivi, who told us all the secrets and latest findings about the area and the Minoan civilization. We learned it was not a “palace” for a king to live in, but actually a labyrinth for religious and economic activities. We learned that the pipes they used to pump clean water from the nearby mountain tops to Knossos hill were thicker at one end and thinner at the other, so they could connect the pipes, but also to speed up the flow of water, which showed that they discovered and used the Bernoulli effect long before Bernoulli ever existed! Ready for the biggest plot twist? “King Minos” was actually a woman!!! And not just one woman, but a line of women leaders of the Minoan civilization! The Minoans had a badass snake lady goddess and they loved and worshipped the woman as a symbol of fertility and continuation of life. At the end of the tour, Akrivi revealed the truths behind the ancient mythology stories, like how the Minotaur monster is the Minoan people’s explanation for natural disasters like earthqaukes and volcanoes. When the earth shook or exploded, they tried to explain it with a story of an angry bull-man monster hidden underground in the labyrinth! After the amazing tour at Knossos, we got lunch and then went to the archeological museum of Heraklion. It was so amazing, there was such intricate pottery, metalwork, jewelry, sculptures, statues, and frescoes. It was organized in chronological order so you could really see the evolution of the writing systems, tools and appliances, and art styles and details.
After the museum we went to Ammoudara beach to rest and relax. The water felt so clear and smooth, and the waves were super calm and relaxing. We got some drinks as the sun set and then we went to Vardis taverna for dinner and Rebetika music. It was such a warm and lively atmosphere, with groups of young and old local people enjoying company, excellent service, delicious food, and the music was so beautiful it brought me to tears of joy (yet again)! We got bread, dolmas, salad, and eggplant cheese rolls for the table, I got spicy chicken, Sophie got plain chicken, Caleb got octopus and Aba got lamb. They brought us fresh watermelon, orange cake and yogurt jelly cake, and raki on the house! At the end of the night, the band asked what song they should play next, I made a request, and they invited me to sing with them! Yay! Another day and night packed full of amazing memories I will remember and cherish for the rest of my life!!!
Thursday May 28
Today we got a late start because we were up late last night and it was good to rest and sleep in. Aba really wanted to go to the south shore beach, so we went to Plakia beach. It was a beautiful drive on the way there through the mountains and gorges, but once we got to the beach we realized it was very rocky and hard on our feet. It was pretty unpleasant to walk on, so we left soon after we arrived and headed back to Rethymno for a softer sandy beach. Sophie was being so silly and giddy swimming and jumping and playing in the water, I think it was the happiest we have seen her in a very long time! The water may have been less clean than the south beach because it was closer to the town with more people and businesses nearby, so we saw a few pieces of trash, but the water was still very clear and nice. The soft sand under our feet made all the difference for me, so I was very happy with our decision to leave the south shore and return to Rethymno beach. We brought big pita tortilla breads and made hummus salad wraps on the beach which were super yummy and refreshing! After the beach we went up to a church on a hill near our apartment to watch the beautiful sunset. We finished up the pita hummus salad leftovers for dinner and then me and Caleb and mom walked into town for gelato to finish our last night in Crete with a sweet treat! 🙂